Oregon summer sippers easy on the pocketbook

Amid a sea of $30 to $60 wines from Northwest producers, the occasional budget jewel bobs to the surface. During the course of a couple of weeks spent reviewing new releases from Oregon, I found quite a few wines perfect for summer sipping that are priced significantly lower than their peers.

Oregon's trump suit is pinot noir, and the state's excellent pinot gris offerings follow closely behind. But less well known, and often as good or better, are Oregon's aromatic white wines -- rieslings and gewurztraminers -- and its stainless steel-fermented chardonnays and pinot blancs.

Rieslings and gewurztraminers

Much as I love Washington rieslings, I confess that those from Oregon (and for that matter, British Columbia) are every bit as good, just styled somewhat differently. In Oregon, I find that most rieslings have less intensity but more delicacy; less fruit power but more floral nuance. Gewurztraminers follow the same stylistic curve, but with the added distinctiveness of that uniquely fragrant and spicy grape.

* Kings Ridge 2007 Riesling, $12

From a 40-year-old vineyard, this is tart and juicy, with classic Oregon riesling scents that run from flower to fruit to stone.

* A to Z 2007 Riesling, $13

Crisp and lacy, this sets up the palate for spicy fare with bracing acids and scents of citrus skins. Flavors emphasize fresh apple and pear, and finish with a lick of minerality.

* Cathedral Ridge 2007 Riesling, $18

This off-dry riesling is reminiscent of some from Canada's Okanagan. Flavor layers combine to bring floral, citrus, perfume, stone and fresh cut apple rolling across the palate, finishing with a tart tang.

* Phelps Creek 2007 Oak Ridge Vineyard Gewurztraminer, $17

Dry and elegant, this captures the grape's rose petal/grapefruit character without becoming oily or cloying. Should work well with spicy foods and Asian noodle dishes.

Chardonnays and pinot blancs

Pinot blanc remains in the shadow of both pinot gris -- a much more lush and fruity wine -- and chardonnay; it's often been called a "poor man's chardonnay" because it is generally less expensive, and less reliant on new oak barrels. These days, Oregon vintners are exploring the more pure and refreshing flavors of unoaked, stainless steel-fermented chardonnays, often made with the so-called Dijon clones, which seem better suited to the Willamette Valley climate than many California clones.

Ponzi is one of the founding wineries of Oregon, now in the hands of the very capable second generation. Maysara is a biodynamic winery that uses estate-grown fruit to good effect. Phelps Creek is a rising star on the Oregon side of the Columbia Gorge. And Spindrift Cellars is a newcomer with exceptionally well-made and well-priced white wines.

* Spindrift Cellars 2007 Pinot Blanc, $16

This lovely bottle is spicy and tart, yet full-flavored with a mix of lime, lemon, pineapple, pear and rind that gracefully runs into a generous midpalate. Sharp acids keep it lively and refreshing.

* Ponzi 2007 Pinot Blanc, $16

Luisa Ponzi has her white wines dialed in nicely, as this luscious and fruit-powered wine beautifully demonstrates. Fresh, juicy flavors of pear, lime, honeydew and apple coat the tongue along with bracing acids.

* Maysara 2007 Pinot Blanc, $17

Full-bodied and loaded with pear-
flavored fruit. It's ripe and round, yet retains its acids and focus.

* Phelps Creek 2007 Unoaked Chardonnay, $18

This is a chardonnay that could pass for a pinot gris. It has a lot of fruit flavors of pear and melon, and the lack of oak is not detrimental; there is plenty of flavor without the butter and toast.

Pinot gris

Once an experimental oddity, pinot gris has become a mainstay of Oregon viticulture, proving so successful that the state recently approved the use of the term pinot grigio should the winery prefer. Either way, it's likely to be a wonderfully textural white wine with flavors of fresh cut pear and lively cinnamon spice. Serve it well chilled.

* Spindrift Cellars 2007 Pinot Gris, $14

This terrific value brings together crisp, enticing flavors that perfectly meld pear skin, citrus and spice with a finish that somehow evokes coffee grounds and caramel. The alcohol rests at an unbelievable 12.5 percent -- this is as European as an Oregon PG can be.

* Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris, $15

One of Oregon's "greenest" wineries, WVV is at its best with this beautifully defined wine, loaded with spice and citrus rind.

* Rex Hill 2006 Pinot Gris, $17

This strikes a juicy pose, layered with white peach, apricot and pear. The fruit flavors gather strength in the midpalate, annotated with baking spice, cinnamon and custard.

* Ponzi 2007 Pinot Gris, $15

Ponzi's elegant and complex take on PG needs breathing time to open and display its generous flavors of pineapple, pear and citrus. Bracing acid and a splash of mineral add complexity.

* Paul Gregutt can be reached at wine@seattletimes.com.

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